From the splendour of historic Palermo to the dramatic landscape of Mount Etna, Sicily provides an abundance of colour and contrasts. Travellers flock here as it’s a place where time seems to have stood still, from the glorious local produce and noisy hubbub of the markets and the narrow streets with washing hanging, to the crumbling ancient ruins and the unspoilt coastline. But for many the destination poses an ethical dilemna: how can visitors enjoy all the island has to offer and contribute to the local tourism economy without funding the Mafia? Well there are some ways to help support anti-Mafia initiatives in Sicily during your trip. www.addiopizzo.org has a list of the 700-plus hotels, restaurants and businesses that have made a pledge not to pay ‘Pizzo’ (protection money). Addiopizzo Travel also offers a free downloadable map of ‘pizzo-free’ Palermo (www.addiopizzotravel.it) Pizzo-free tours are also offered by a variety of local tourism businesses, including AddioPizzo Travel, offering an introduction to local cuisine and culture. There is a new anti-Mafia museum at Corleone, and there are also farmstays (agriturismo) such as Terre di Corlenone established on land that has been confiscated from convicted Mafiosi (see www.liberaterra.it for details). These flourishing new businesses that also often sell wonderful organic produce are providing employment during tough economic times. Responsible tourism at its best.